June 2009
June 1, 2009
Is including locally grown food in your diet important to you? The “buy local” trend is growing and more Americans are frequenting farmers markets, joining CSA’s (Community Supported Agriculture) and looking for “local” sections in grocery stores and on menus.
Unfortunately, the demand for organic, local and fresh has opened the door for deception at farmers markets, grocery stores and restaurants. People with very good intentions are being manipulated into thinking that they are buying local, fresh foods when they are not! Just recently a Santa Cruz Valley chef claimed that he includes local foods in his menu whenever possible – we have never met. Grocery store chains have told customers, through their advertising, that they are buying from local farmers. These same stores have told us that we would need to supply all the stores in their region (as in – the Southwest) the same crop year round, regardless of season. Being controversial and making waves is not my style, but we are working very hard to make our farm a viable business and the deception of others has a direct impact on our success.
Many of our regular customers ask why we don’t participate in more farmers markets. The truth is, we just can’t compete with market vendors. I have been to farmers markets in January after waking up at the crack of dawn to harvest, wash, weigh and pack our winter crops. Then, it’s off to market to set up our table and lay out our rather monochromatic green winter wares. Invariably, a vendor nearby is already assisting the long line of buyers that has formed at their table, attracted to the colorful boxes of bright red tomatoes, cucumbers and even pineapple. Some folks are probably aware that someone other than the vendor grew these vegetables. They may even know that the foods were grown in another country. Many, however, have no idea. They are at a farmers market after all. Some perhaps ask a question or two before committing to their purchases, but the answers, which aren’t actually lies, can be misleading.
Q: “Are you a farmer? ”
A: “Yes, I have acreage in _______. ”
Owning land doesn’t mean the produce you are buying came from that land. I know of one vendor who owns land and even refers to it as a “farm” but has no well on that land. In the dry desert, no water means no farm.
Q: “Is this organic? ”
A: “Yes. ”
Often “yes” is a truthful answer. There are perfectly legitimate organic farms in Mexico and maybe that is all you want to know, but, are you willing to compromise quality and freshness for the “organic” label? Usually produce warehouses in Nogales aren’t interested in selling vendors a couple of boxes of produce. They sell their produce by palletized truckloads. Stewart and I used to pick up produce from these same warehouses when we had pigs to feed. Every week the managers decide which pallets aren’t going to last in the shipping. Produce needs to be shipped before it is ripe. While in transit, the foods are kept in optimal temperature and humidity conditions so when they reach the grocery store shelves they are ready for the consumer. Food that has already reached its peek in the warehouse will not be shipped. This goes to the dump or to cattle ranchers and pig farmers. Sometimes, this is also the organic produce you are buying because vendors can pick up a few boxes instead of the whole pallet. It is still edible, and, great – let’s not let it go to waste, but were you really planning on buying the same produce you could have bought at a grocery store, often for a higher price? Again, if that doesn’t bother you, that’s fine. It bothers me. And what about post-harvest handling? Our fresh picked produce not only comes to you shortly after harvest, but we are able to store it in a walk-in refrigerator until we are ready to transport it. In fact, conventional produce was at least kept cool all the way through the shipping chain until you bought it. Many vendors don’t have refrigeration to store their produce, seriously compromising the quality of the product. Ever noticed how the bell pepper you just bought at a farmers market is already wrinkled when you get it home? These are the reasons why. My advice – If you want to buy bell peppers (or any other summer produce in January), go to the grocery store where at least you know they were handled properly.
Q: “Did you grow all this? ”
A: “We grow what we can and the rest we buy from our neighbors. ”
A vague answer and one that I have heard a vendor use over and over. This is a vendor who goes to the farmers markets almost everyday of the week, yet has no employees. Who’s doing the work; seeding, cultivating, harvesting, and washing….? Thing is, he is probably being truthful, but think of the leeway that answer gives. He could have grown six pots of basil on his front porch then bought the rest (tomatoes, peppers, pineapple, avocado, etc.) from his “neighbors” in Mexico or from a nearby warehouse.
Farmers markets are fun social events and bountiful, colorful tables overflowing with veggies make the experience more attractive, no matter where they came from. Keep in mind, however, that there are real farmers at these markets and there would be more real farmers if they didn’t have to compete with vendors. Even more, vendors retard innovational farming –why, for example, would we go through lengths to be the first farmer to showcase the season’s tomatoes if vendors have been selling them year round!
If you are looking for the “real deal” – organic, local, fresh and from the grower, I have the following advice:
Talk to market managers. Many farmers markets in other states do not allow food “vendors” and these growers must have an open door policy at their farms to prove that they are, in fact, farmers.
Keep asking questions. Don’t stop at “Is this organic? ” Here are questions you could ask.
1. What organic growing practices do you utilize?
2. How many acres do you have in production right now?
3. What kind of post harvest handling systems do you have in place? (Refrigeration, washing, etc.)
4. Do you re-sell? If so, which items and whom did you buy them from?
5. When was this (pepper, tomato, etc.) harvested?
AND – THE BEST QUESTION OF ALL – 6. When can I come to visit your farm?
Want to but local? You can come to the farm Saturdays 9-3, Sundays 12-3. Also, Melio’s Trattoria in Tubac has been consistently buying our arugula for years. Janos in Tucson has been a great client as has The Velvet Elvis and Red Mountain Foods in Patagonia. By far the client most dedicated to serving local is Primo Restaurant at the J. W. Marriott at Star Pass who changes their menu weekly to accommodate our freshest harvest!
Avalon Gardens (Tumacacori) and Forever Yong Farm (Arivaca) are two other very local farms. Both will be at our 2nd Annual Garlic and Onion Festival June 19 & 20 in the evenings from 5PM-9PM. Admission is free. Bring a blanket to lie in the grass and enjoy live music and great food!
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